Whereas extensively referred to as a China-made motion, the Seagull ST-19 chronograph has at all times been well-accepted by the watch neighborhood. It seems to be good, it has a tried-and-tested structure (properly, in fact, being a duplicate of an previous Venus 175), it has a traditional combo of column-wheel and horizontal clutch and, largely, it made it attainable to get a vintage-like chronograph look ahead to an accessible value. However instances are altering as Seagull outlined some main adjustments to the long run provide of all ST-19 sequence actions, making it virtually not possible for small manufacturers to get them anymore, figuring out the brand new and excessive “minimal order amount” outlined by the motion maker. And whereas it will likely be the top of the story for a lot of smaller indies, Studio Underd0g will probably be one of many only a few able to having this motion, inside an up to date 01SERIES Chronograph, coming into its Third era.
So what’s the take care of the motion, which, till now, has been extensively referred to as the bottom of many accessible chronographs…? Seagull, a large Chinese language motion maker, printed in April 2024 an official discover that signifies that, for the long run, all variants of the ST-19 chronograph calibre may have a MoQ (minimal order amount) of 10,000 items. A big quantity, which most micro-brands received’t be capable of fulfil. As such, many younger or accessible watch manufacturers are saying goodbye to the ST-19 calibre, and should discover another answer. However not Studio Underd0g, the younger model that you simply might need found by way of their collab with H. Moser & Cie.
The official discover from Seagull signifies that (translated from Chinese language), “to stabilize the market and make sure the market competitiveness of this product, the gross sales mannequin of every motion of the ST19 sequence is adjusted” with sure guidelines, akin to; “a minimal order amount of 10,000 items, complete amount of single or a number of varieties” or that “ST19 actions bought by prospects can solely be used for their very own manufacturers and should not be bought to different prospects or people with out authorization.” These guidelines are efficient since Might 1, 2024.
What the Studio Underd0g has completed is to safe the supply of actions by way of a contract with Seagull, permitting them to offer a bespoke model of this column wheel chronograph motion, the ST-1901B. Modifications in comparison with off-the-shelves variants are visible – an all-black major plate – but additionally technical because it’s now geared up with a swan neck regulator. With it, Studio Underd0g achieves extra exact regulation, with changes completed in Nice Britain to -10/+15 seconds per day (in comparison with -15/+35 seconds per day earlier than). Figuring out this, and because of the minimal 10,000 items to order, it implies that we’ll see extra of the Seagull-powered chronograph watches sooner or later.
And that’s not all, as this cool-looking and well-praised motion now is available in an up to date model of the model’s accessible and acclaimed chronograph watch, the 01SERIES Third-Technology. In comparison with earlier variations – right here and right here, for instance – the 38.5mm metal case has been reworked to be thinner, with a complete thickness of 12.9mm (down from 13.6mm), and the crown thickness has been elevated for higher winding motion. The scale of the sapphire exhibition caseback has been elevated too… Nothing unsuitable with being pleased with displaying this motion!
The Studio Underd0g 01SERIES Third-Technology comes with a barely reworked dial too, accessible in 4 daring and contemporary colors – Watermel0n, Desert Sky, Go0fy Panda and Mint Ch0c Chip – nonetheless with diversified sizes of the sub-dials and coarse-grained-like texture, framed by a tachymeter scale. All are worn on a supple Epsom Calfskin strap. Total, minimal adjustments in comparison with the Gen-1 and Gen-2.
This new era Studio Underd0g 01SERIES will probably be accessible for pre-order on the nineteenth of November 2024 for 9 hours between 3pm – 12am GMT by way of underd0g.com. All orders positioned throughout this window will probably be assured a watch. The primary 600 orders will probably be delivered in December 2024 (earlier than Christmas), with any additional orders to be delivered from January 2025. All variations are priced at EUR 590, GBP 550 or USD 560 (incl. worldwide transport).
