Welcome to a different installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we determined to place the Swiss up in opposition to the Japanese, every with a purple-dial chrome steel watch of their very own. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual with a lavender dial represents the Swiss, whereas the Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 represents the Japanese. Each got here out throughout Watches and Wonders this yr, have clear time-only dials, and are available in iconic chrome steel circumstances. That offers Thomas and Daan sufficient similarities to match them. However there are additionally greater than sufficient variations to name out and formulate a choice for one or the opposite.
As all the time, earlier than we get into our writers’ arguments, let’s shortly recap what occurred in final week’s Sunday Morning Showdown.
Beforehand, on Sunday Morning Showdown…
Final week, it was Oris versus Longines, exterior versus inside bezel, beige versus white dial, and date versus no date. Ultimately, the Oris Divers Date collected 53% of the votes, whereas the Longines Legend Diver wasn’t far behind in any respect with 47%. Trying on the feedback, it appears the Oris acquired the good thing about the doubt as a result of it presents extra worth for the cash. At €2,450 for the Divers Date, the Legend Diver simply couldn’t compete with its value of €3,800. Let’s see what’s going to occur when Oris introduces a Calibre 400 model of the watch. Then, the costs will most probably be very comparable, and we’ll have a extra even competitors. The costs of this week’s contenders are a bit nearer collectively, so let’s see what’s going to occur.
Daan: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Lavender”
That’s proper; the 36mm Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 126000-0013 with a matte lavender dial prices €6,400, and the 36.5mm Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 is available in at €6,000. Value-wise, then, our contenders aren’t that far aside this week. In fact, a Rolex is all the time more durable to get on the checklist value, and also you would possibly even be capable to get a reduction on the Grand Seiko in as we speak’s market. Nonetheless, for the argument’s sake, let’s hold these checklist costs in thoughts for as we speak’s battle.
I personal a Rolex Oyster Perpetual. All proper, it’s an Explorer variant, the reference 114270, from 2005. However nonetheless, it’s similar to the lavender model I’m defending as we speak. My Oyster Perpetual is the proper Rolex for me. Its 36mm measurement is so comfy on my 17cm wrist, and the Oyster bracelet is likely one of the greatest bracelets within the enterprise. If I’m unsure precisely what my day holds, however I need to put on a watch that may do something, I put on this one. And that occurs many days of the yr.
A matte lavender dial
The brand new Rolex Oyster Perpetual with a lavender dial is likely to be a bit much less below the radar than my black-dial Explorer. Nonetheless, the dial on the brand new OP is matte as a substitute of shiny. So it’s colourful, sure, however modestly so. Because of the baton indexes, straight arms, and the all-steel case and bracelet, it’s an ideal watch to put on with informal apparel. That stated, you might even gown it up by swapping the bracelet for a sophisticated leather-based strap.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual is a strong-looking watch with out being too cumbersome or in your face. That additionally depends upon the dimensions you select, in fact. Nonetheless, particularly with this lavender dial, it presents the proper steadiness between muscular tissues and playfulness. The colour is toned down, someplace in between blue and purple. So, it’s refined and pleasant, identical to the convex, polished bezel on high.
The perfect bracelet, interval
The Oyster bracelet on my 2005 Rolex Explorer has hole middle hyperlinks, and the clasp doesn’t provide on-the-go micro-adjustment. Nonetheless, it’s one of many best-constructed bracelets on the market. I dare say that the up to date model of the Oyster bracelet, with its fully stable hyperlinks and 5mm toolless Easylink extension, is the most effective bracelet in the marketplace. It feels extremely stable and completely matches the appears of the Oyster case. For me, it’s the bracelet to beat.
Certain, Grand Seiko is understood for its high-level ending and stable development. Each of these issues are true for the bracelet on the SBGW323 as properly. Nonetheless, there’s no toolless micro-adjustment, and I nonetheless can’t recover from the truth that the bracelet- and case-design departments aren’t speaking to one another. The one matching attribute between the long-lasting 44GS case and the five-row bracelet is the combination of brushed and polished finishes. How nice would it not be if the bracelet hyperlinks matched the sharp angles on the case? It could make the Kiri look so a lot better. All proper, Thomas, let’s hear it for the SBGW323.
Thomas: Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323
Thanks, Daan! Effectively, it is a powerful matchup — two very spectacular “easy” time-only watches following very completely different philosophies. It’s fairly fascinating how completely different the lavender Oyster Perpetual and the Kiri are, even when they pursue a really comparable idea.
Let me begin by admitting I discover your arguments very compelling, Daan. I agree that the fashionable Oyster bracelet is second to none in its class. In truth, it outshines virtually any bracelet in any class. That stated, if we take that because the be-all and end-all of watch high quality, Rolex wins any comparability. Equally, we must be cautious to not revert to evaluating specs sheets over all else. Certain, toolless micro-adjustment is good, however we’ve worn watches with out it for many years with out situation.
There’s an attention-grabbing distinction between these two watches in that sense. I’d argue that the Rolex feels of upper high quality, whereas the Grand Seiko appears higher-end. The lavender-dial Oyster Perpetual might be machined to the next commonplace, whereas the Kiri is completed to the next commonplace. The query, then, is whether or not you worth the look or the texture. In case you maintain these facet by facet, the Kiri will dazzle you with mild play from its razor-sharp Zaratsu surfaces. The Rolex will wow you with the way it looks like a bit of precision engineering. As slightly apart, who else would like to see a Rolex completed by Grand Seiko? That may be killer!
The Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 over the Oyster Perpetual 36 “Lavender”
I can observe your arguments concerning design, Daan. I agree that the Rolex appears extra cohesive. That stated, we each view these watches by way of Western eyes, whereas solely certainly one of them is made within the Western design custom. If you wish to spend your Sunday morning studying slightly bit extra about design, might I like to recommend this video on Western versus Jap design philosophy? I’m satisfied you’ll recognize the Kiri way more after that.
Nonetheless, there are just a few the reason why I feel the Grand Seiko is the one to get right here. For starters, it’s got the higher dial colour. The Paulownia-inspired tint is lighter and fewer saturated. This makes the distinction between a watch that works with any outfit and one it’s a must to rigorously pair along with your attire. Needless to say these are everyday-type watches, so that you need that versatility. I can see the Oyster Perpetual’s lavender dial clashing with blue shirts, as an illustration, however the Kiri’s dial a lot much less so.
Talking of the dials, the Kiri options a ravishing texture that makes it way more dynamic. Particularly once you add the Zaratsu-polished markers and handset, you get a watch that may be a pleasure to behold. You will see your self gazing at it in numerous ambient mild simply to see the way it reacts. You gained’t even want lume as a result of the watch will choose up the faintest mild and replicate it. As a Grand Seiko proprietor, I can solely say it is a pleasure I want upon any watch fanatic.
The extra unique alternative
As a watch fanatic, I really feel the Kiri can also be the extra unique alternative. It’s extra of a dialog starter and a extra distinguishing choice. Whereas the lavender-dial Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 would possibly convey that you’re a part of the Rolex in-crowd, the Grand Seiko Kiri says that you’re a distinctive particular person with a style of your individual. What would you quite have your watch say about you?
It additionally helps you could pursue an SBGW323 with out having to grovel. Your Grand Seiko boutique will welcome you and type you out quite than smirking arrogantly and asking you about your buy historical past. I don’t learn about you, however I do know what I really feel is the extra fascinating luxurious expertise. You even get to maintain slightly cash in your pocket, sufficient to deal with your important different to a really fancy dinner whereas rocking your new Grand Seiko.
A extra concerned expertise than the Oyster Perpetual
Lastly, I feel you get extra of an expertise altogether once you choose the Kiri over the lavender-dial Oyster Perpetual. In addition to the mesmerizing dial and case, you get a hand-wound caliber. As it’s possible you’ll know, I’ve a smooth spot for manually winding GADA watches. I like the little second of attentive interplay along with your watch within the morning. It looks like a reciprocal course of — I deliver the watch to life, and it’ll serve me all day in return.
Particularly with a caliber as good because the Grand Seiko 9S64, winding is a pleasure. It feels buttery easy with a refined however assured ratchet. And even in case you are a convenience-first sort of watch fanatic, the Grand Seiko works. In spite of everything, you possibly can select to not wind it day by day. I don’t know why you wouldn’t, however the 72-hour energy reserve presents ample freedom in that regard.
All in all, I feel the Grand Seiko will really feel extra partaking and private. In consequence, I’d choose the Oyster Perpetual in black or darkish blue to make it the proper sling-it-on-and-go versatile GADA watch. In terms of extra particular dial colours, comparable to mild purple, I’d all the time choose the extra partaking Grand Seiko.
Solid your vote
There you’ve got it — two very comparable watches that, on the identical time, may hardly be extra completely different. Which might be your choose? Solid your vote and share your motivation within the feedback part beneath.
