Arms-On with the Restricted Version Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver

Regardless of what a glance into my watch assortment may suggest, I don’t put an enormous quantity of inventory into the idea of seasonal watches. Broadly talking, most watches can simply be worn any day of the yr, and in any affordable circumstances one may encounter. Nonetheless, I’m not so blind as to disregard that some watches have a particular “vibe,” and for proof of that, you don’t must look additional than the brand new Deep Diver from Girard-Perregaux.

The Deep Diver, which Girard-Perregaux has just lately relaunched in collaboration with Bamford Watches, is the newest in GP’s line of classic revival fashions — or “Legacy Editions” — and follows up on the considerably stunning success of the Casquette. Now, classic reissues are nothing new lately, however not like some friends, Girard-Perregaux has been cautious in diving into its again catalogue. The results of this restraint is that GP’s Legacy Editions are reliably sturdy releases, with every feeling like a uncommon deal with somewhat than a checked field or drained contrivance.

The unique Deep Diver was launched in 1969, however continued to evolve for a couple of years earlier than being phased out of the GP lineup within the late ‘70s. The brand new Deep Diver particularly attracts on the ref. 9108 because it existed within the mid-‘70s. The Deep Diver has all the time been a classic mannequin I’ve had my eye on (I vividly keep in mind bidding on one on eBay after I was in school, solely to get blown out of the public sale on the final minute by somebody who clearly knew what they needed), however it was by no means a watch I anticipated to make any type of fashionable comeback — though possibly I ought to have recognized higher.

Nonetheless, after I noticed the press launch for this watch in my inbox forward of the watch’s re-release, I used to be positively excited, and I used to be much more excited after I had the chance to spend a while with the Deep Diver on the day of its launch. The brand new Deep Diver hews remarkably near the unique — even sporting a classic execution of the Girard-Perregaux wordmark (which I hesitate to say is healthier than their present branding, and probably value a revisit). Even the daring coloring comes instantly from classic examples of the watch, though the usage of orange lume is exclusive to the fashionable version, and the hues and color-blocking have been barely reworked.

Whereas the brand new watch is available in Grade 5 Titanium (versus stainless-steel), the size have remained remarkably just like the unique. The cushion case measures 40.3mm large, and the fashionable launch is barely thinner than the classic, sitting at just below 14mm thick (not that I count on anybody will complain a few thinner dive watch). On my 7.5” wrist, the watch wears exceedingly properly. The cushion case and quick lugs imply the watch is comparatively compact for its measurement, and on the rubber strap, the watch sits good and tight.

The Deep Diver comes with a pair of color-matched rubber straps, one in a deep navy, the opposite in a vibrant orange. The straps are snug and versatile, and evoke the look of the classic bracelet. Whereas I’d like to have a titanium bracelet obtainable as an choice with these watches, I believe for what’s clearly supposed to be a heat climate watch, having a pair of brightly coloured and comfy fast launch rubber straps is a good compromise, and I’m certain I’d find yourself spending most of my time carrying this watch on the orange strap had been I to ever find yourself with one in all these in my watch drawer.

As one would count on from a model like GP, the touchpoints on the Deep Diver are all immaculate. The 2 crowns are every simple to work together with, and whereas I usually favor exterior bezels from a purposeful standpoint, it’s arduous to argue in opposition to the super-compressor look of the Deep Diver. Ending is good-looking, with the radially brushed case contrasting properly with the polished lugs and 14-sided bezel for a simple however appropriately eye-catching look.

Contained in the watch is a GP03300 motion, a time and date choice used all through the Girard-Perregaux lineup. It’s a stable in-house choice with 46 hours of energy reserve and is vaguely seen via a navy blue show caseback.

One sticking level that will show arduous to disregard with the Deep Diver is the worth. The 350-piece restricted version (which is barely obtainable at Watches of Switzerland via June 15) is priced at $15,100. That’s clearly no small sum of money, however it’s additionally a hotly contested section of the dive watch market, alongside manufacturers like Blancpain and Rolex, which clearly have a lot stronger histories within the dive watch house. Girard-Perregaux has been out of the dive watch recreation for a minute, and if we ever see a much less restricted model of the Deep Diver, I’d like to see it priced barely extra competitively.

General, the Deep Diver is a outstanding reminder of how efficient classic revival may be for a model after they dip into the properly judiciously. I walked out of my assembly pleasantly shocked that the watch was all the things it wanted to be; specifically, that it was enjoyable. The watch business generally is a fairly critical place, appropriately when asking clients to place down actual cash for costly, anachronistic toys, however it ought to by no means be extreme, and watches just like the Deep Diver are a fantastic reminder of simply how enjoyable these items may be, even after they’re taken significantly. Girard-Perregaux