Shot on Leica by Jake Witkin
Among the many numerous novelties that Tudor unveiled this 12 months at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025 is a brand new model of the Black Bay 58 that showcases a shiny metallic burgundy colorway. That stated, quite than simply being a red-colored model of the identical mannequin that has been a mainstay within the Swiss model’s catalog since its launch in 2018, the brand new Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy ushers within the subsequent technology of BB58 watches. These new fashions function a slimmed-down case, METAS Grasp Chronometer certification, and the choice of a rubber strap or two totally different types of chrome steel bracelets.
Again when the Tudor Black Bay first debuted in 2012, the mannequin was initially supplied with a black dial and a burgundy bezel. From there, a blue-bezel model joined the lineup, after which a black-bezel mannequin was later added to spherical out the trio of chrome steel Black Bay fashions. Nevertheless, in the case of the smaller Black Bay 58, Tudor has rolled out its colorways in the exact opposite order, with the unique BB58 embracing an all-black colorway, the follow-up mannequin rendered in blue, and the most recent model now showing in burgundy. With that in thoughts, whereas all three of the bigger chrome steel Black Bay divers are fitted with matte black dials, the BB58 fashions function dials that match their respective bezel colours, and in contrast to the earlier two variations that had been paired with matte dials, the BB58 Burgundy (ref. M7939A1A0RU) has a metallic purple dial with radial-brushed sunburst end.
Though burgundy was the unique colour for the Tudor Black Bay, the BB58 Burgundy seems in a noticeably extra vivid shade than what could be noticed amongst different fashions from the Black Bay lineup. The rationale why Tudor has opted for a unique shade of purple and given the dial a sunburst end is that the Black Bay 58 Burgundy is impressed by a prototype Tudor Submariner ref. 79190 from the Nineties that was fitted with a metallic purple dial and bezel. Whereas the burgundy-colored prototype by no means really ended up making it to manufacturing, the Black Bay 58 Burgundy reimagines this aesthetic throughout the context of the model’s vintage-inspired dive watch, and it gives a noticeably extra lighthearted aesthetic in comparison with the matte black and darkish blue hues that characterize its BB58 siblings.
Except for having a metallic purple sunburst end, the dial fitted to the Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy is in any other case kind of the identical as what could be discovered on different BB58 fashions, and it encompasses a gently domed floor with utilized hour markers which might be crammed with Grade A Swiss Tremendous-LumiNova. Nevertheless, because the Tudor BB58 Burgundy is a METAS-certified chronometer, the phrases “Grasp Chronometer” are printed under the depth score on the decrease half of its dial, quite than having the “Chronometer Formally Licensed” textual content that may be discovered on different Black Bay 58 divers. The “Snowflake” handset and utilized indexes provide an an identical model to different BB58 fashions, however quite than that includes gold-finished fingers and gilt printing to emulate a mid-century aesthetic, the frames for the fingers and hour markers are plated in rhodium and the dial printing is executed in silver to create a extra modern general look.
Crafted from chrome steel with brushed and polished surfaces, the case of the Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy intently adheres to the blueprint established by earlier BB58 fashions, though it’s 0.2mm thinner than its predecessors, and it measures 39mm in diameter by 11.7mm thick. Similar to different Black Bay 58 watches, the brand new burgundy model is fitted with a domed sapphire crystal surrounded by a unidirectional rotating bezel, whereas the reverse facet of the watch receives a strong screw-down caseback, and on the 3 o’clock location is a signed screw-down crown that helps create 200 meters of water resistance. With that in thoughts, the bezel on the BB58 Burgundy is fitted with a shiny purple anodized aluminum insert, and the form of its winding crown has been redesigned to function extra distinguished fluting just like the crown on the Black Bay 58 GMT that debuted final 12 months.
For the reason that Black Bay 58 Burgundy is a METAS-certified Grasp Chronometer, it receives a unique motion than its siblings, and powering the watch is Tudor’s manufacture Caliber MT5400-U, which encompasses a silicon steadiness spring and runs at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) with an influence reserve of 65 hours. Since a COSC-rated motion is without doubt one of the stipulations for METAS certification, the BB58 Burgundy is technically each COSC and METAS licensed. Nevertheless, since METAS evaluates full watches (quite than simply actions), the testing course of covers each water and magnetic resistance, with all METAS-certified watches able to withstanding magnetic forces higher than 15,000 gauss. Moreover, METAS adheres to extra stringent timekeeping tolerances than conventional COSC requirements, and METAS Grasp Chronometer watches assure an accuracy score of -0/+5 seconds per day.
Not like different BB58 fashions which might be out there with leather-based and cloth straps, the Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy is completely supplied with the choice of a black rubber strap or one in every of two totally different chrome steel bracelets. The rubber strap encompasses a two-piece design with chrome steel end-links occupying the areas that will in any other case exist between its springbars and the facet of its case. In the meantime, the primary of the 2 bracelets gives a flat three-link construction that mirrors the looks of classic rivet-style Oyster bracelets, and the second bracelet has a rounded five-link design that remembers the looks of the oval-link Jubilee bracelets that may be discovered on older Rolex and Tudor fashions. Whatever the strap or bracelet that patrons choose, all three choices are paired with Tudor’s “T-fit” clasp, which options an built-in micro-adjustment system that permits homeowners to both develop or contract the size of their bracelet with out the usage of any instruments.
Resulting from its updates and extra METAS Grasp Chronometer certification, the Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy prices barely greater than the varied different chrome steel BB58 divers, and the mannequin has an official retail worth of $4,400 USD when bought on a rubber strap (ref. M7939A1A0RU-0003), $4,625 USD when paired with the three-link rivet-style bracelet (ref. M7939A1A0RU-0002), and $4,725 USD when patrons go for the extra intricate five-link bracelet possibility (ref. M7939A1A0RU-0001). In the identical manner that Tudor has been steadily rolling out the following technology of full-size Black Bay divers with Grasp Chronometer certification, the brand new BB58 Burgundy marks the start of the second technology of the model’s midsize dive watch lineup, and I wouldn’t be shocked if the opposite colorways finally ended up receiving related updates in some unspecified time in the future sooner or later. For extra data, please go to the Tudor watches web site.
The photographs on this article had been shot on a Leica Q3, offered by Leica for Watches and Wonders 2025.
