Amongst its quite a few improvements through the years, Longines holds the excellence of making the first-ever GMT wristwatch. The unique square-cased Zulu Time was launched in 1925, and because the model celebrates a century of wrist-mounted GMTs, it turns its consideration to the fashionable, trendy Spirit Zulu Time household. Somewhat than an elaborate period-correct revival of the 1925 Zulu Time, Longines takes a tastefully restrained route, elevating the crisp, timelessly sporty Spirit design with enticing rose gold accents. Though the two-tone Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 cleaves near the usual Spirit Zulu Time, this commemorative version will be the most tasty model thus far, combining its balanced proportions and wonderful motion with easily built-in unique prospers.
Whereas the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 makes use of the identical 39mm huge stainless-steel case design as the usual Spirit Zulu Time, the model drastically adjustments the character of this watch with a number of mild changes. The centerpiece of those, and arguably your entire watch, is its new engraved, radially brushed 18K rose gold bezel insert. In comparison with the ceramic inserts seen throughout the remainder of the Spirit household, this brighter, hotter materials instantly provides the watch a extra vintage-inflected character on the wrist. In the meantime, the sharply outlined, matte-filled 24-hour scale lends much more texture to a watch that already thrives on its ending. In fact, the richness of the gold itself ties the case and dial collectively on the wrist cleverly. As well as, this format presents a extra considerably luxurious look than the earlier two-tone Spirits, which render the slim bezel itself in gold. This evocative new bezel design sits atop the acquainted Spirit case platform, with its sharply angled tapering lugs, vertical case sides, and broad polished chamfers that minimize by the starkly grained brushing. Whereas the 39mm case diameter sits within the candy spot for a lot of lovers (together with my very own 6.75-inch wrist), the 13.5mm general thickness is substantial. It’s not overwhelmingly chunky, however it’s not the slender, wrist-hugging case profile proven by among the Spirit’s opponents, and the flat, tall case facet structure accentuates this thickness. On the caseback facet, the Spirit Zulu Time 1925 provides the Zulu Time’s first sapphire show window, offering a view of the uniquely completed motion. Like the usual mannequin, Longines charges this model for a flexible 100 meters of water resistance.
The dial of the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 brings alongside its personal minor tweaks, however these mild adjustments add as much as a extra centered, cohesive complete. The matte black dial, warmly rounded utilized Arabic numerals, straight sword palms, and the diamond indices chopping into the polished outer accent ring are all Spirit hallmarks by this level. Nonetheless, Longines proves the facility of colour right here. Somewhat than the sandy khaki lume of the usual Zulu Time, the 1925 as a substitute opts for crisp white and replaces the common manufacturing mannequin’s yellow gold highlights all through with bezel-matching rose gold. Each part from the handset to the gilt dial textual content is shifted to this redder hue. Laid towards the stark black and white of the remainder of the dial, it’s a format that feels each modern and luxuriously masculine. With out further colours preventing for consideration on the wrist, the Spirit Zulu Time 1925 additionally deftly spotlights simply how finely balanced the essential Spirit dial format is. The whole lot from the hour numerals to the road weights of the outer minutes scale is rendered with rigorously thought of proportions, with nobody dial component visually overpowering the others. Even the dial’s solely absolutely new component — a minute, tone-on-tone “1925-2025” engraving at 6 o’clock — is thoughtfully restrained and prevented from overshadowing different elements. In fact, the controversial utilized five-star emblem stays at 6 o’clock, which can nonetheless bitter this dial for some lovers.
As with earlier variations, Longines powers the Spirit Zulu Time 1925 with the L844.4 automated GMT motion. Whereas not strictly a manufacture motion, the L844.4 is made solely for Longines by Swatch Group sister model ETA and presents wonderful efficiency figures for this value bracket. On prime of providing fascinating “flyer” GMT performance with a quick-adjust native hours hand, the L844.4 additionally offers COSC-certified chronometer accuracy, an antimagnetic silicon stability spring, and a beneficiant 72-hour energy reserve at a 25,200 bph beat fee. Not like in the usual Zulu Time, the L844.4 is on full show right here, and the ending is solidly executed. Somewhat than the extra widespread Geneva striping, Longines tops the bridges and stability cock with broad, sharply outlined perlage for a brighter, high-impact look. It’s the customized rose gold PVD rotor that steals the present, nevertheless, with a relief-engraved world map accentuated by arabesque brushing. Not solely does this tie in nicely to the bezel and dial, however the world map itself is a beautiful motif, and one which I’m shocked we don’t see extra usually in GMT actions.
Longines caps off the Spirit Zulu Time 1925 with its three-link stainless-steel bracelet. This bracelet is a standard fixture within the Spirit household, and it stays roughly unchanged right here. Though the oyster-style building is comparatively widespread, eye-catching particulars like polished interior hyperlink edges add mild play to the predominantly brushed, gently curving hyperlinks. The signed clasp is equally sharp, with a remarkably crisp engraved Longines textual content emblem and additional vibrant, well-polished chamfers. General, it’s a traditional and versatile sporting look on the wrist. As with earlier variations, although, this bracelet does endure barely because of its male endlinks. Even with a pronounced downturn, these considerably enhance the watch’s efficient lug-to-lug size, which can trigger overhang on smaller wrists.
Because the first-ever GMT wristwatch turns 100 years previous, Longines stays deeply devoted to the complication it helped to pioneer. As each a celebration of its GMT prowess and a refined, enticing evolution of one in every of its hottest collection, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 is compellingly good-looking proof that not all commemorative editions must be classic revivals. The Longines Spirit Zule Time 1925 is offered now by approved sellers. MSRP for this watch stands at $4,350 USD as of press time, which is surprisingly nearly $500 cheaper than the usual two-tone Zulu Time. For extra info, please go to the model’s web site.
