Exploring the New Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Assortment (incl. video)

Coinciding with the arrival of Guido Terreni as CEO of the model, high-end Swiss watchmaker Parmigiani Fleurier has undergone a whole restructuring for the previous years. This transfer was initiated by the launch of a big assortment, the Tonda PF, which not solely modernized the imaginative and prescient we had of PF but additionally pushed it into a brand new dimension (business-wise). Nonetheless, a model can not stay on one assortment alone, and Parmigiani Fleurier has an equally necessary title in its catalogues: Toric. A necessary a part of the model’s historical past, the Toric was Michel Parmigiani‘s first enterprise into the world of wristwatches. This yr, this elegant assortment is again… Time to see if the brand new Toric Small Seconds lives as much as its title as we’re assembly with Guido Terreni, with who we’ll talk about this new assortment in our newest in-depth film. 

Concise historical past of PF and the Toric Assortment

Parmigiani Fleurier has not all the time been about making wristwatches. The truth is, the story of the model and its founder, which we’ve lined at size on this portrait, began with the restoration of previous clocks and pocket watches – which was the way in which to return within the mid-Nineteen Seventies, when the mechanical wristwatch wasn’t in vogue anymore. There weren’t many alternatives for extremely expert watchmakers in these days, and it was due to his patrons, the Sandoz household, that Michel Parmigiani might follow his artwork. Then, in a narrative that unfolds within the Fleurier area, a sure Karl-Friedrich Scheufele of Chopard commissioned the event of an computerized double-barrel motion – an necessary calibre generally known as the L.U.C 96.01.

On the similar time, Michel Parmigiani determined it was time for him to fly solo and begin his eponymous model, later generally known as Parmigiani Fleurier. With the return of mechanical watchmaking, Michel launched Parmigiani Fleurier in 1996 with a set of 52 references combining easy and sophisticated timepieces. The QP Rétrograde, the primary wristwatch from the Parmigiani Fleurier model, debuted in 1996, establishing the gadroons and detailed knurling on the case as signature in-house traits. The Toric grew to become a set in 1998, with the introduction of a less complicated, extra centered mannequin named Reminiscence Time.

All Toric watches featured shared design cues, beginning with volumes and proportions primarily based on the Golden Ratio, double-stepped or single-stepped bezels with knurling and javelin-shaped arms. The Reminiscence Time was an odd watch altogether, because it featured a leaping hour mechanism that may very well be used as a dual-time perform. However what’s necessary, greater than the mechanics primarily based on a Lemania ébauche (thought to be the easiest way to do issues again within the mid-Nineties) or the bizarre show, was the design, which outlined the gathering for the many years to return.

The marginally Baroque strategy, which was inherent to most creations of Michel Parmigiani, was impressed by Roman structure and the Golden Ratio (which, as an anecdote, has been one of many key inspirations for Terreni when he was on the head of Bulgari watches). There are additionally a number of references within the work of Michel to a number of the best names of watchmaking historical past, reminiscent of AL Breguet, with finely guilloché dials or conventional high-end issues – which is smart since Parmigiani restored many vintage Breguet items, such because the Breguet Pendule Sympathique.

Whereas neo-vintage and early variations of the Toric have not too long ago gained in collectability, the modern assortment was shedding traction and, since Terreni’s arrival, was one way or the other left on the aspect. However that was till this yr, as a result of now the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric assortment is again.

The brand new Toric Small Seconds

After reshaping the gathering with the Tonda PF and Tonda PF Sport, two trendy watches with built-in designs, Terreni seems again on the model’s historical past and relaunches Parmigiani’s most vital watch, the Toric. Introduced earlier this yr at Watches & Wonders Geneva, the gathering is, for the second, compact, with solely three references – two small seconds fashions forming the everlasting assortment and one restricted version Rattrapante.

At present, we’ll give attention to the all-important Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Small Seconds, which is on the centre of our video. However what’s the Toric, and particularly, what’s the new Toric? In a nutshell, and as defined by Terreni within the film, it’s the model’s imaginative and prescient of a gown watch and a tribute to its roots. As Terrini stated within the interview we performed right here, “a gown watch has to suit an outfit as you’re dressing up“. Nonetheless, in trendy days, the gown watch has modified just because vogue and magnificence have modified too. Though it respects the codes of the gathering, the Toric has develop into a press release of contemporary class. Discreet, textured and subdued, the sartorial codes and restrained contact of colors mix properly with modern outfits. Like tremendous clothes, the branding is saved to a minimal, and the material is of top of the range and timeless.

With the Toric Small Seconds, Parmigiani Fleurier is redefining its time-only gown watch by utilizing the codes of contemporary class. It’s not a mere remake of the prevailing fashions, but it feels immediately Toric. The watch is all about masculine class and class – and I do know that, by saying such phrases, I would sound a bit pompous, however it’s a actuality within the current context. It’s much more current within the color palette chosen by the model, which has a real sense of discreet originality and refinement. The selection of supplies, with nearly all components product of valuable metals, additionally aligns with this long-lasting imaginative and prescient.

Let’s begin by trying on the case. The Toric Small Seconds is obtainable in two variations, rose gold or platinum, every being a mirror picture of the opposite within the chosen tones for the dial and strap. The case, measuring 40.6mm in diameter (fairly massive on paper, far much less on the wrist because of the large bezel), remains to be impressed by Doric columns and vintage structure. The model has advanced from the unique assortment, with extra modernity and ease, firming down the Baroque parts. Sleeker, softer and fewer advanced, the case combines mild curves, with out protrusions or aggressive angles, with the refined texture of the knurled bezel. Its skinny silhouette of 8.8mm is a contemporary imaginative and prescient of a gown watch with basic PF codes, however it does really feel much more modern. It additionally exudes an actual sense of restrained luxurious by its ending and weight on the wrist.

Let’s speak about colors right here, as the selection of the 2 fashions performs a particularly necessary position within the enchantment of this assortment. The 2 fashions are, as stated above, mirror photos with an identical colors used at totally different positions of the watch. The Toric is all about subtility and trendy sartorial tones, utilizing a canvas of impartial greys and beiges and a whole absence of harshness within the contrasts. Subdued is the key phrase right here. The platinum mannequin combines its chilly metallic color with a Celadon Gray dial, which produces barely inexperienced reflections, and a matte sand-coloured nubuck strap. The rose gold watch pairs its heat case with a Sand Gold dial and a Celadon Gray strap, once more utilizing chilly and heat contrasts reasonably than darkish and shiny tones.

Like the remainder of the watch, the dial of the Toric has been streamlined to the utmost with out compromising the standard. Following the path of the Tonda PF, the faceted hour markers are minimal, the model’s title has been eliminated and changed by a emblem positioned in an oval cartouche, and a matte floor has changed the guilloché texture. Easy and modern at first sight, the dials are literally advanced in execution. Constructed from stable white or rose gold, with a refined bevel on the periphery to mark the chapter ring, these are fitted with stable gold utilized indices and arms, all polished to convey distinction. The floor of the dial is the results of a standard graining method.

Because the model defined, “this technique, rediscovered by the perseverance and experience of grasp watchmakers reminiscent of Michel Parmigiani, includes the cautious software of a particular combination on the dial, composed of cream of tartar, crushed sea salt, and silver, blended with demineralized water to create a homogeneous paste. The appliance of this paste, adopted by delicate sprucing with particular brushes, generates an everyday and tender floor“. Additionally, the dials will not be flat however so-called chevé, as their edges drop barely to relaxation towards the internal face of the case.

Shifting to the opposite aspect of the watch, the motion can be worthy of point out. A brand new inner improvement, this new calibre PF780 is each visually interesting, technically intelligent in its structure, and much more opulent than the remainder of the watch – which is according to the entire spirit, as luxurious is one thing you don’t present to the world however take pleasure in for your self. First, this hand-wound motion is a deliberate design assertion, with asymmetry and geometry on the coronary heart of its conception. The 2 barrels, which can present secure torque and prolonged energy, are elegantly positioned underneath two openworked, polished metal bridges. The graphic structure can be seen within the straight-cut bridge subsequent to the regulating organ, additionally held in place by an openworked, transversal polished metal bridge.

As stated, this motion is opulent, primarily as a consequence of 18k rose gold bridges. Contrasting with the polished bevels is a brand new ending method known as Côtes de Fleurier, making a tremendous, nearly fabric-like texture enhanced by the sandblasted mainplate. Working at 4Hz, it boasts 60 hours of energy reserve.

Ideas, Availability & Value

After severe consideration and speaking with the remainder of the crew, we agreed that the brand new Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Small Seconds had made a robust impression on us. The selection of colors, the discreet sense of luxurious, the distinction between the relative simplicity of the watch and its opulent supplies, the modernity of the strategy… The brand new Toric definitely appears like a rigorously thought of watch. I significantly love the subdued model of the outside components in comparison with this barely exuberant and demonstrative motion. As stated, those that know will know…

If I had one remark concerning the new Parmigiani Fleurier Toric assortment, it will be the worth. I perceive that utilizing valuable metals on nearly all components comes at a price. I perceive that there are time-consuming ending strategies throughout. But, with a beginning value above EUR 50k, the Toric enters a really restrained circle of high-end time-only watches, with fierce competitors from unbiased watchmakers and a handful of extremely established manufacturers. I’m not saying that the worth isn’t justified, however I’m expressing considerations concerning the positioning. Finally, the market will give us the reply. Nonetheless, I can confidently state that the brand new Toric Small Seconds is without doubt one of the most elegant but modern gown watches of the previous couple of years. It’s pleasant.

Quickly accessible from the model and retailers (later in September 2024) and never restricted, the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Small Seconds in rose gold retails for CHF 45,000 or EUR 50,600, whereas the platinum model retails for CHF 52,000 or EUR 58,400. For extra particulars, please go to www.parmigiani.com.