To not let its latest Aerospace B70 Orbiter hog the highlight, Breitling can also be unveiling a plethora of recent Navitimers. Curiously, solely certainly one of these Navis is a chronograph, and it’s within the type of the limited-edition self-winding 18K purple gold Cosmonaute. Contemplating there are 9 different watches (double that with strap variants) and not using a chronograph operate, the Navitimer is broadening its potential. Among the many lineup is the brand new Navitimer GMT. So far as I can surmise, that is the primary GMT complication in a Navtimer that’s not additionally a mechanical chronograph. Pusher-less Navitimers haven’t been my cup of tea, however the GMT structure livens up the dial in a shocking means. Let’s get into it.
To kick it off, let’s take a look at the brand new Cosmonaute. This variation of the Navitimer makes use of the in-house B12 motion geared for one full rotation of the hour hand each 24 hours. The place this mannequin differs from 2022’s Sixtieth-anniversary Cosmonaute is the automated motion. The Scott Carpenter restricted version has the manually wound caliber B02. This caliber relates extra to the 1962 unique and its meant use in low-gravity area capsules. Whereas self-winding rotors will nonetheless rotate in low gravity, there’s a historic connotation with wind-up watches in area. Therefore, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch makes use of a hand-wound motion to this present day. Nevertheless, as with the Speedmaster, there’s a demand for automatics for on a regular basis use. Due to this fact, Breitling now incorporates its self-winding B12 with 70 hours of energy reserve into the brand new Cosmonaute.
Breitling Navitimer B12 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute Restricted Version
It’s price reiterating the story of the Breitling Cosmonaute. In March 1962, Mercury 7 astronaut Scott Carpenter requested Breitling, a revered maker of pilot’s watches, to develop a watch able to area flight. The necessities had been a 24-hour dial show and a extra pronounced bezel for operation with gloves. A number of days earlier than the triple-orbit Mercury-Atlas 7 flight, Breitling delivered the watch to Carpenter to be used onboard Aurora 7. Regardless of the success of the first goals, re-entry was compromised, and Carpenter’s capsule splashed down within the Atlantic Ocean, about 400km adrift from his goal. Carpenter struggled to maintain himself and the capsule afloat for 55 minutes as rescue providers scrambled to find him. The watch noticed irreparable harm on account of saltwater ingress beneath the crystal.
With 2024 being Breitling’s a hundred and fortieth anniversary, the model is celebrating tales of air, land, and sea breakthroughs. Through the Mercury-Atlas 7 mission, Carpenter’s Breitling Cosmonaute turned the primary Swiss wristwatch in area. Whereas the timepiece took a beating, Breitling marks this feat for the a hundred and fortieth anniversary with this limited-edition Cosmonaute. The 18K purple gold 41mm case instantly differentiates it from its metal and platinum bezel forebear from 2022. The emerald-green dial enhances the wealthy gold tones, offset with black sub-dials that includes concentric grooves. The standout from this piece is the B12’s gold oscillating weight seen via the sapphire window case again. This isn’t the primary time Breitling has employed the 24-hour chronograph B12 in its watches, as seen within the discontinued Breitling Avenger Hurricane. Nevertheless, Breitling has accomplished nicely in retaining the relative slimness, with the brand new auto being solely 0.6mm thicker at 13.6mm than the 13mm B02 Cosmonaute.
Increasing the trendy Navitimer assortment
Transferring on to the Navitimer GMT, Breitling incorporates the 24-hour indication centrally throughout the dial. This stepped recess ensures the corresponding GMT hand doesn’t impede the central time-telling arms. Subsequently, the slide-rule features retain readability and separation from the 12 utilized indices. Breitling has a knack for designing legible GMT layouts, as I detailed in my write-up on the Tremendous AVI Mosquito. Nevertheless, it’s troublesome to foretell which brand Breitling will use for its collections as there’s seemingly an absence of continuity. For instance, the AOPA winged brand is just current on the Cosmonaute from at present’s launch. I see a case made for under the normal chronograph Navitimers together with the AOPA emblem. That leaves the Computerized 41 and GMT with the stylized “B” brand, which works nicely with the extra simplified aesthetic.
The Navitimer GMT makes use of the Breitling caliber 32 with a 42-hour energy reserve and automated bidirectional winding. Whereas this caliber is a COSC-certified chronometer, it isn’t an in-house-developed mechanism however, reasonably, is derived from an ETA ébauche. Not like Breitling’s producer B04 GMT, the Breitling 32 is a caller-style GMT, requiring the 24-hour hand to regulate to the native time. Ideally, a flyer GMT is best for journey because the GMT hand acts as the house time, with the principle arms because the native time. Thomas defined the variations brilliantly in his article right here, and it does come all the way down to desire. I choose the central arms to be probably the most immediate indicator for the time the place I’m. That mentioned, the Navitimer GMT’s structure clearly distinguishes time zones. One other profit is the relative slimness of the case at 11.65mm thick.
Conventional colours
The brand new GMT assortment opts for a extra mainstream choice of colours. With the most recent Navitimer chronograph, Breitling experiments with an array of daring colours, reminiscent of copper and pistachio inexperienced. Whereas not too offensive, the GMT pares it again to conventional black and silver dial decisions within the 41mm stainless-steel case. The ice-blue choice is a nice outlier with electric-blue accents as an alternative of purple within the black and silver fashions. A vibrant emerald-green dial is offered solely within the 41mm purple gold case. This 18K traceable gold is sourced from accredited mines with the Swiss Higher Gold Affiliation. The stainless-steel and 18K purple gold GMT instances characteristic strong screwed-in backs. Additionally, as with a number of of Breitling’s new releases, the date window sits symmetrically on the dial on the 6 o’clock place.
Lastly, Breitling is reintroducing the 41mm model of the automated Navitimer to the vary. We’ve seen this variation in 32mm and 36mm case diameters. However now, the most recent configuration extends to the gentlemanly 41mm sizing. Whereas not groundbreaking since this case dimension exists within the chronograph vary, for these wishing for the essence of a Navitimer with out pump pushers, the 41mm dimension is again. The stainless-steel choices embrace deep blue and inexperienced dials. Nevertheless, the ice-blue dial curiously consists of purple accents as an alternative of the GMT’s electric-blue particulars. Additionally becoming a member of the lineup is a two-tone model in metal and 18K purple gold with a silver dial. Final is a model in full 18K purple gold, which carries the Origins Swiss Higher Gold label and a silver dial. As with the 36mm case, the 41 makes use of the chronometer-certified ETA 2824-based Breitling caliber 17. Every case additionally aligns with the GMT variations at 11.65mm thick.
Last specs and pricing
For the GMT and Computerized 41, there’s a selection of black, brown, or blue alligator straps with folding clasps or Breitling’s seven-row bracelet with slanted hyperlinks. The Computerized 41 in metal prices £4,450 on a strap and £4,700 on the bracelet. The 2-tone Computerized 41 options 18K purple gold hyperlinks within the even-numbered rows. This two-tone bracelet choice is £8,150, or you will get the watch on a golden-brown alligator strap for £6,400. The 18K purple gold model is £29,500 on the bracelet and £12,400 on the strap. Transferring on to the GMT, the worth bracket shifts upward, with the metal fashions coming in at £4,850 on a strap and £5,100 on the bracelet. The purple gold GMT with the inexperienced dial is £12,850 on black leather-based and £29,950 on the complete bracelet.
The newest Cosmonaute is proscribed to 250 items, contrasting the 2022 Scott Carpenter version’s 362 items. Nevertheless, the earlier B02-powered mannequin was an immediate sellout on launch. Accessible completely via brand-owned boutiques and Breitling’s webshop, the Navitimer B12 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute prices £17,900 on a black alligator leather-based strap with an 18K folding clasp. Formally, there isn’t a bracelet choice for the Cosmonaute. Nevertheless, I’m positive an choice so as to add one to the order will current itself with a boutique buy.
Take a look at the Breitling web site right here for additional data on the brand new Navitimers.
