Introducing: Nomos Has Three New Black Orion Watches, Every With Their Personal Aptitude

What We Know

The Nomos Orion Neomatik is again in a brand new black, and whereas it has been too lengthy since I’ve written concerning the model, I am glad to be again. So, I’ll let unfastened right here and get you all the small print. At first look, it may very well be mistaken as only a black dial and metal case, however there’s a bit of extra occurring right here.

Whereas the Orion would possibly seem to be a easy watch with not loads that may be finished to distinguish it from mannequin to mannequin, Nomos has made various refined updates right here throughout the three completely different sizes. First, you may discover that the black galvanized dial is streamlined as a result of lack of a sunken subsidiary seconds. As an alternative, the sub-seconds is flush with the remainder of the dial making a cleaner design. That cleanliness continues throughout the 36mm and 38.5mm (39, they name it) fashions with no date, powered by the DUW3001 motion with 43 hours of energy reserve. On the 41mm model, you get a color-matched date with gold font.

Talking of gold, every watch has its personal contact of heat, however finished in numerous methods. On the 36mm mannequin, the utilized hour markers are all gold-toned, together with “Neomatik.” For the 39, solely “Neomatik” and a small marker at six o’clock get the remedy. On the 41mm, you get the identical, plus gold palms and the aforementioned date. All watches are cased in metal (starting from 8.5mm to 9.4mm thick) and include a black Horween shell cordovan strap. Costs are $3,580, $3,920, and $4,200, relying on the scale.

What We Suppose

I used to be not too long ago gifted a pair of my late grandfather’s gold cufflinks. My grandma thought it could go nicely with the tuxedo I’ve (and put on possibly annually). Whereas I might like to put on them and bear in mind my granddad, my first thought was: I do not actually put on gold watches, so what sort of black tie watch may I put on that might pair nicely with yellow-gold cufflinks? Apparently, Nomos has solved that downside right here by subtly mixing and matching metal and gold.

These watches are an amazing match for dressy conditions as a result of they’re comparatively skinny (8.4mm, 8.7mm, and 9.4mm) for computerized calibers on the worth because of their actually stable calibers (the DUW3001 and DUW6101) with Nomos’ swing system escapement. Some folks would possibly discover the value a bit excessive, edging into Tudor territory, however I feel it is value it for Nomos’ design, watchmaking, and good ending which you’ll see via the show caseback. And whereas it is not a large improve, the model has been capable of eke out an additional little bit of water resistance within the case, upping it from 30m to 50m, taking it from splashproof to what I might name “splash-proof-plus.”

I am typically a fan of sunken subdials, although I additionally favor any sub-seconds over none – I would a lot slightly take a Lange 1815 over a Saxonia Skinny from an aesthetic standpoint, as an illustration. However right here, the flat dial works with the austere Bauhaus design of the Nomos, probably even higher than earlier releases. My solely criticism is that by mixing and matching the touches to every watch in gold, you probably will discover a couple of clients who will discover their most well-liked mixture in a special measurement case. What for those who needed gold palms in a 36mm case? Effectively, then you definitely’re frankly caught with having to determine between the still-solid choices earlier than you.

The Fundamentals

Model: NomosModel: Nomos Orion Neomatik 39/41 New BlackReference Quantity: Ref. 396 (36mm), Ref. 346 (38.5mm), Ref. 366 (41mm)

Diameter: 36.4mm, 38.5mm, 41mmThickness: 8.5mm, 8.7mm, 9.4mmCase Materials: Stainless steelDial Shade: Black galvanizedIndexes: Utilized and painted (metal or gold)Lume: NoneWater Resistance: 50mStrap/Bracelet: Black Horween Real Shell Cordovan

The Motion

Caliber: DUW 3001 (36mm and 38.5mm), DUW 6101 (41mm)Features: Hours, minutes, seconds and, solely on the 41mm, dateDiameter: 28.8mm (DUW 3001), 35.2 mm (DUW 6101)Thickness: 3.2mm (DUW 3001), Unknown (DUW 6101)Energy Reserve: 43 hours (DUW 3001), 42 hours (DUW 6101)Winding: AutomaticFrequency: 21,600 vph (DUW 3001), 28,800 vph (DUW 6101)Jewels: 27Chronometer Licensed: No

Pricing & Availability

Value: $3,580, $3,920, $4,200Availability: ImmediatelyLimited Version: No

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The Hodinkee Store is an Approved Retailer of Nomos Glashütte watches; discover our choice right here.

You may be taught extra about Nomos Glashütte on the model’s web site.

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