A number of weeks in the past, I joined Chopard on a visit to the Dordogne area in France. There, I might sit down and speak with Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-president of Chopard, and have a look at a few of the L.U.C watches the model has deliberate for 2025.

Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele — Picture: Chopard
The previous, current, and way forward for L.U.C
Different manufacturers additionally do these previews, usually nearer to the launch date. They often contain inviting watch media to the manufacture to offer them a heads-up on what’s coming, giving them an opportunity to create content material about watches beneath embargo, and speaking concerning the model’s route. This time, I used to be pleased to have an opportunity to interview Mr. Scheufele and ask him about his 28 years with the L.U.C journey.

Château Monestier La Tour
Full program in France
However earlier than that, I wanted to journey to the Dordogne area of France as an alternative of the Chopard headquarters in Switzerland. That was as a result of the parents from Chopard needed to carry this preview in a unique setting. Along with watches, this may permit them to indicate us the Scheufele household’s vineyard. Moreover, Chopard would give a beautiful likelihood to drive basic automobiles as Mr. Scheufele is captivated with accumulating them. It was a full “Chopard way of life” expertise, so to talk.
Wine, basic automobiles, and watches
I’m aware of the Dordogne area in France. My mom and stepfather lived there (close to Bergerac) for a number of years till 2012. So going again to that place was a possibility I gladly took since I often don’t journey to that area. I’ve fond recollections of it and used to go to my mother and father there fairly often. It’s only a 1.5-hour flight from the place I’m and an extra 1.5-hour drive from the airport to the placement that Chopard invited us to. With a handful of different watch media, we met at an attractive venue within the Dordogne and have been handled to a tour of the Scheufele household’s vineyard.
After the vineyard tour, Mr. Scheufele welcomed us, and we watched a presentation on Chopard L.U.C milestones, latest introductions, and what we will count on for subsequent yr. Sadly, we can not share something about Chopard’s plans for subsequent yr, however the model has some incredible watches lined up. We will present you the watches launched “silently” within the final a number of months, although. These embody the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 12 months of the Dragon (ref. 161977-1002) and the L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon (ref. 161990-0001).

Picture: Chopard
Jaguar XJ
As well as, Chopard gave us the prospect to drive some basic automobiles. As Mr. Scheufele shared his presentation with us, the automobiles lined up for us in entrance of the vineyard. A number of lovely automobiles have been within the parking zone, however solely certainly one of them stopped my coronary heart for a second. There it was — a Jaguar XJ in a shocking caramel colour, a automobile similar to what my stepdad had (a Collection III) once I nonetheless lived at dwelling. I joined him when he purchased it from the primary proprietor, who’d had it because the early Eighties, and he at all times let me drive it. He handed away final yr, and seeing and driving this particular automobile within the area the place he lived with my mother was extremely nostalgic. Let’s simply say it was a really emotional expertise for me.

Picture: Chopard
It’s an extremely elegant automobile and a really easy driver. Chopard was so form to let me drive that one out of the spectacular lineup, and it introduced again many nice recollections. The automobile even had the identical specific scent inside. My passengers — Candice Chan from Singapore subsequent to me and two individuals from Chopard within the backseat — in all probability had no concept of what was happening inside my head. The XJ I drove on this breathtaking surroundings in France as soon as belonged to the daddy of the individual in command of the basic automobile occasion that Chopard organized. He was extremely emotional about it and visibly hesitant to let it participate on this drive, however I’m without end grateful that he did.
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 12 months of the Dragon
One of many watches launched a number of months in the past is Chopard’s L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 12 months of the Dragon. Three years in the past, in 2021, Chopard launched its first L.U.C jump-hour watch, the Quattro Spirit 25 ref. 161977-5001 powered by caliber L.U.C 98-06-L. This yr’s new mannequin additionally homes this motion and shares the identical 40mm by 10.3mm case. What makes it so completely different is the Grand Feu enamel dial with the hand-painted dragon.
Based on the Chinese language zodiac, 2024 is the 12 months of the Dragon. It’s the fifth zodiac animal out of 12, and it’s believed that an individual’s signal (or animal) influences his or her character, fortune, compatibility with different zodiac indicators, and many others. Chopard determined to give you three variations for the 12 months of the Dragon in 2024, every with completely different strategies utilized. The one which spoke to me probably the most was the model with a Grand Feu enamel dial, so right here’s my fast hands-on expertise with this particular eight-piece restricted version.
Chopard is a kind of firms that appear to do an unbelievable quantity of artisanal work in-house. Throughout our go to to the Chopard manufacture websites close to Geneva and in Fleurier earlier this yr, we visited the division the place the hand-painting of dials takes place, for instance.
Bounce hour
First issues first, although, the L.U.C 98.06-L motion is now three years outdated, and Chopard places it to good use. At Watches and Wonders in Geneva earlier this yr, I noticed the white gold Quattro Spirit 25 with a black enamel dial sporting this lovely motion with the Poinçon de Genève. All three 12 months of the Dragon watches have this motion with its jump-hour mechanism. I like jump-hour watches, though I don’t personal one (and haven’t but). It’s nonetheless on my prolonged want record. In case you aren’t aware of jump-hour watches, they’ve an aperture on the dial that signifies the hour reasonably than a typical revolving hour hand.
In fact, that’s simpler mentioned than accomplished, and the motion requires torque to make the “leap” occur. This specific caliber additionally offers the watch with a powerful eight days of energy reserve. To attain this, Chopard developed the L.U.C 98.06-L with two pairs of stacked barrels containing 4 mainsprings in whole, all in sequence. As you possibly can see within the picture I took of the motion, Chopard invests fairly some effort in ending the motion. It consists of Côtes de Genève on the bridges, chamfered edges (anglage), and a fantastically polished and beveled regulator organ. And once more, all of this occurs in-house at Chopard in Fleurier.
Grand Feu enamel
The white Grand Feu enamel dial undergoes all the required steps. After cleansing the bottom disc in an acidic tub, the artisan applies a skinny layer of enamel powder to it. The dial then goes to the oven, which is over 800° Celsius. When the powder melts, the dial is taken out and flattened, and a brand new layer of powder is utilized. Then, it goes again into the oven. The enamel takes on a unique shade with every layer till it reaches the ultimate colour. It’s a really meticulous course of.
On the white enamel dial, an extremely detailed dragon is hand-painted by one of many artisans at Chopard’s Fleurier manufacture. The dragon is a superb miniature portray with completely different shades of blue for the scales and (flame) parts in brilliant crimson. It’s merely beautiful to see this paintings on a dial, and eight fortunate individuals can put on it on their wrists.
These eight Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 12 months of the Dragon watches (ref. 161977-1003) are manufactured from 18K white (moral) gold and have a retail value of €76,800.

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele (©Virgile Guinard)
Speaking to Karl-Friedrich Scheufele
Then, it was time to speak about watches with Mr. Scheufele, co-president of Chopard (his sister, Caroline Scheufele, is the opposite co-president of the corporate). On the Château Monestier La Tour vineyard, we sat down to speak about L.U.C and several other different matters.
Robert-Jan Broer (RJB): Visiting the vineyard right this moment, driving lovely basic automobiles, and looking out on the L.U.C watches, it appears Chopard is concerning the finer issues in life, not nearly watches.
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele (KFS): An exquisite watch will not be a necessity in life, for certain, nevertheless it definitely makes life value dwelling. I believe magnificence in numerous types is a necessity on the finish of the day. That is true for vintage automobiles, the L.U.C assortment, and this a part of France we’re in right this moment. In case you are extra into “present,” you wouldn’t come right here however go to St. Tropez, and that’s one other way of life. Right here, I believe you possibly can relate to extra of what we might name “quiet luxurious.”
RJB: Is that this way of life life additionally one thing you need to present to a youthful viewers?
KFS: Within the final two or three years, we’ve got seen that we’re attracting a youthful viewers with a few of our newest watches. It began with the Alpine Eagle, perhaps additionally as a result of it was a manufacturing with my son (Karl-Fritz). However numerous these youthful shoppers have come to find L.U.C after having purchased an Alpine Eagle watch. They grew to become extra within the model, and right this moment, it’s great to see these youthful shoppers, who’re our future.
RJB: You mentioned throughout your presentation that rising the L.U.C model wasn’t at all times easy crusing. Are you able to elaborate on this?
KFS: If we take the very first motion, the L.U.C 1.96, for instance, it took us a yr longer than we deliberate as a result of it turned out that the calculation for the winding of the watch was not appropriate, and we didn’t have sufficient winding energy. So we had to return to the drafting board and enlarge the caliber. This was the primary time for us, so I didn’t count on this to occur. It was a giant blow once I realized that it might take us one other yr greater than I had deliberate. Afterward, I acquired used to those hiccups or discovering that one thing we had designed a sure approach turned out to not be sensible in manufacturing. In instances like that, it’s a must to return and redesign. I suppose it’s fairly regular, however whenever you’re launching your first manufacture, it’s all new.
RJB: Wanting again at 28 years of L.U.C and evaluating it to Chopard’s different non-L.U.C watches, what are the principle variations in method?
KFS: In terms of design, it follows the aim of the watch and the shoppers we take note of with the gathering. However we do pursue high quality the identical approach in every thing we do, regardless of the watch. The one distinction with L.U.C is that it’s way more concerning the motion. L.U.C taught us rather a lot about method initiatives and attain extra technical excellence. As a result of certifications, we apply issues we don’t apply to different merchandise. A number of Chopard watches use in-house actions, which might not exist if we didn’t have L.U.C.
RJB: Is Ferdinand Berthoud additionally a results of that?
KFS: Sure, it might have been unthinkable to launch FB with out the entire data we collected from L.U.C. And now one thing else is going on. We’re pushing Ferdinand Berthoud additional, and now we will use issues we realized there for L.U.C.
RJB: In terms of the watch business, what’s retaining you awake at night time?
KFS: It’s the overall financial state of affairs or the state of the world basically. The world is so aggressive and, in some ways, unreasonable, not very human. Whether or not it involves the form of the planet or irresponsible conduct, together with the irresponsible actions of the management in some international locations, what retains me awake is the impact it has on the corporate.
RJB: Which watch are you most pleased with?
KFS: The primary L.U.C 1860, certainly one of which I saved for myself.

An early L.U.C 1860 with the 1.96 motion — Picture: CollectorsCornerNY
RJB: What’s a model or watch exterior the Chopard universe that you just admire probably the most?
KFS: I used to be born in Germany, and I like A. Lange & Söhne watches. That can also be as a result of I met Mr. Blümlein, who relaunched the model in 1994, and vastly I appreciated his persona. In these days, I purchased a Lange for myself. I don’t get to put on it a lot anymore, however I like the rigorous method he had in the course of the relaunch of this lovely model.
RJB: Did it encourage you for L.U.C?
KFS: It was on the similar time. We acquired the prize (which doesn’t exist anymore) for the Watch of the 12 months in 1997, nevertheless it was for Swiss manufacturers solely. A. Lange & Söhne had a particular point out on this contest because the model will not be Swiss. So it couldn’t win, however not less than it acquired this point out. Everybody on the jury thought that Lange deserved this consideration. I used to be additionally there, in order that’s how we met early on.
RJB: Are you optimistic about the way forward for (mechanical) watchmaking? What must be addressed for this business to nonetheless exist 50 years from now?
KFS: Mechanical watches are a really fascinating idea and impartial of any kind of power. You don’t want every other power than the motion out of your wrist to wind the watch. The watch you purchase right this moment is one thing you hand all the way down to your youngsters. Even 30, 40, or 50 years from now, you’ll nonetheless be capable of put on and wind it. I don’t know if there are every other helpful objects on the market that carry out the identical approach. All the pieces else right this moment is digital and made to vanish sooner reasonably than later.
RJB: Do you assume that’s sufficient for the mechanical watch to exist one or two generations from now?
KFS: I’m fairly optimistic! The mechanical watch is a really private object, very similar to jewellery. Jewellery has completely no operate however being lovely or having emotional worth. I’d put a mechanical watch in the identical class as a result of it provides numerous emotional or sentimental worth. I don’t know of every other object you possibly can put on on your self that you’re eager to maintain or gather. A basic automobile is far too sophisticated to maintain working, and naturally, sooner or later, there may be no gasoline, and many others. A watch is an object that has a giant likelihood to outlive for a lot of extra years.
RJB: What’s your recommendation to the newbie collector or fanatic?
KFS: To begin with, I strongly urge anybody to check, learn, evaluate, and attempt to perceive the underlying facet of what a mechanical watch is, and what you might be in search of. Don’t let your self be tempted to shortly purchase one thing that got here superficially to you. Do your homework, after which you’ll benefit from the watch way more. It’s like consuming wine consciously. Taking the time to actually style wine and studying admire it, you’ll have extra enjoyment when you undergo that fundamental course, let’s say, than when superficially consuming wine. I believe the extra you already know a couple of topic, the extra you’ll get pleasure from it.
Gown watches
Whereas visiting the Dordogne on Chopard’s invitation, I seen a few of the others have been carrying a few of the (now-)discontinued L.U.C 1860 watches. Whether or not they have been the newest L.U.C fashions launched in 2024 or the discontinued 36mm fashions from the late Nineties, they definitely struck a chord with me. My style in watches has slowly transitioned from sports activities watches to a more healthy mixture of gown and sports activities watches. That may be attributable to growing older, however I additionally seen a stronger demand for gown watches just lately. It grew to become clear as soon as extra throughout this journey that the horological ardour of the Scheufele household (Karl-Fritz Scheufele was additionally there) is extremely real. That definitely impacts my enthusiasm for L.U.C watches. The hunt for a pleasant L.U.C is on!